DATE.....: Tuesday November 09, 1999 NUMBER...: 5-44728 TITLE....: BERLIN WALL ANNIVERSARY-REPORTER'S NOTEBOOK TYPE.....: BACKGROUND REPORT BYLINE...: GIL BUTLER DATELINE.: BERLIN KEY......: 794467 CONTENT..: VOICED AT: INTRO: On November 9th, 1989, the Berlin Wall came down leading to German unification. It was a defining event in a momentous time that saw the end of the Cold War. Germans celebrated unification with Beethoven's great Choral symphony, but the end of the German Democratic Republic has not been without problems. (This week,) VOA's Gil Butler has been reporting on Germany ten years after the fall of the Wall and (in this final report) he shares some thoughts from his reporter's notebook about his latest visit to Berlin. /// OPT. CHORAL ODE TO JOY UP AND OUT /// TEXT: Ten years ago, while the Wall was still here, the few meters between Checkpoint Charley and East Berlin's border amounted to a journey to another era - - another world. You left modern West Berlin behind and entered a grim and somehow grimy world of state control - the world of Erich Honecker and Communist East Germany. The main street - Unter Den Linden - may have had the triumphal Brandenburg gate at one end, but it had no shops to speak of, no brightly lighted cafes. There is still a transition going from west to east, but it is more subtle. While West Berlin has a vibrant, late night street life, East Berlin seems an early-to-bed governmental kind of place - which it is. Since early this year, Berlin has resumed its status as Germany's capital. The center part of Berlin is a huge construction site as the newly restored capital tries to erase decades of division. Potsdamer Platz is the center of the biggest building project. A bright red building on stilts called "the Infobox" was set up to explain the project. It has become one of Berlin's favorite tourist destinations - - seven million visitors so far, most of them Germans. They can even get married at the construction site for about a hundred dollars. Among the new fixtures of East Berlin is a system of big pastel blue and pink pipes that snake over sidewalks and beside old buildings. They are designed to equalize the water table under those buildings while a new city center is constructed in the former no-man's land. If the water level was not controlled, some of these buildings might collapse. The last time I reported from here was the 40th anniversary of the German Democratic Republic-East Germany. As a foreign reporter I was assigned a hotel room in the public-sector Metropole hotel just off Unter Den Linden street. It was a pretty good example of a Communist state's idea of modern convenience. The Metropole hotel is still here. But now it is really a modern hotel, part of the Maritim chain. It doesn't bear any resemblance to the old Metropole and the only nod toward that era is the bar: it's called the "Checkpoint" bar, after Checkpoint Charley the entry point to East Berlin from the American Sector. Nothing remains of the original Checkpoint Charley but a sign -- "you are leaving the American sector" -- and a museum which sells memorabilia and gives tours of rooms with pictures and photographs of the way it was when the Wall was up. Another pre-1989 building is the German Democratic Republic's governmental palace. The Republican palace is a communist era building that has survived just because of the fear that tearing it down would destabilize nearby structures. This building is an important part of the story of the fall of the Wall. Back in October 1989, Erich Honecker was greeting visiting, mostly Communist, leaders at the entrance while out back, state police were breaking up a huge demonstration of young people calling for Mikhail Gorbachev, the most prominent of the visitors, to save them. A short distance away is Alexander Platz, the big square in the eastern part of Berlin. /// ACT. PERUVIAN PIPE MUSIC (UP/UNDER/OUT) /// It's crowded today with shoppers; people having lunch; listening to strolling musicians. But ten years ago, on the fourth of November 1989, 500-thousand people gathered here demanding an end to repression. The Wall came down five days later. In some ways, Germans are trying to forget the years of division. You have to look hard to see where the wall was, and only a few sections have been left standing with their art and graffiti. In another sense, the Wall still remains. East Germans are different than West Germans and there's resentment on both sides. But of all the people I talked to on this trip, not one longed for a return to the totalitarian East German state that disappeared when the Wall came down. (Signed) /// OPT. MUSIC UP AND OUT /// NEB/MGB/SP/KL 09-Nov-1999 14:09 PM EDT (09-Nov-1999 1909 UTC) NNNN